An Arrogant Man

Tuesday, December 27th, 1994

Our first morning in Chiang Mai is spent sleeping late and eating a leisurely breakfast. We head out for a travel agent to see about my adding on a week’s trip to the States. I have in mind to visit my podiatrist because the orthotics are only aggravating my foot pain, not helping it.

While waiting for the travel agent to try to find me an available seat, I struck up a conversation with the man next to me, apparently not a Chiang Mai tourist due to a lack of daypack. I ask him questions about his life and the hill tribe people. He talks at me, not to me, staring out the window as he babbles.

He is very upset about the demise of the hill tribes and the “ruination of Chiang Mai,” as he phrases it. Every time I try to make a comment, he interrupts and continues with his cynical tirade. I quickly reach my patience threshold and turn away from him. The travel agent can find no available seats for Dec. 31, Jan. 1, 2, or 3. The arrogant man leaves after booking a flight to Bangkok, complaining all the while.

We head across the square for J.J.’s. Although it is called J J Bakery, lunch and dinner are served here, too. There are lots of familiar foods on the menu, and real coffee, too! It is a real treat after two years of Japanese food! After lunch we buy “Mr. Mos” cassettes at a music shop, get photos developed, then walk back to Eagle Guest House for rest and relaxation before the Khantok dinner show.

We are the only ones to go from the guest house. Not a good sign. But it’s too late to change our minds, and we get into the van, which goes on to pick up a few more folks from other guest houses and hotels in the area. The place is huge, with many different rooms and stages for the dance show. Unfortunately, table #42 turns out to be stuck between a huge potted plant and a wood column, so our view of the stage is limited. Now I remember seeing Patricia and Charlie’s photos of the dance show in Thailand, all with the leaves of a huge plant in them!

The dancing is interesting, with many beautiful costumes and intricate hand movements. The dancers are so graceful! I enjoy the live music. The food is very heavy and oily and does not set well. The show outside after dinner features hill tribe dancing, and this is my favorite. Their costumes, which everyone says is everyday clothing, are so colorful! The line dancing reminds me of all the fun I’ve had doing international folk dancing in the States. N and I agree that the “Fingernail Dance” is the most interesting of the stage dances.

The parking lot is lined with hill tribe vendors selling Thai silk clothes, hill tribe cotton and silk bags and clothes. I buy some clothes for myself and friends and family in the States. I want to buy it all! Colorful, intricate clothing like theirs is a sign of a peaceful, well-balanced lifestyle, I believe. They have enough time to enjoy making such beautiful clothes.

As we watch the dancing and buy the hill tribe hand-made clothing, I
find myself wondering what the arrogant man thinks of this tourism. Is this huge dinner-show complex the property of the hill tribes, and are they maintaining financial independence as a result? I can only hope so. More than likely the hill tribe people are merely employees, and a rich Thai businessman is only getting richer. Should this place be supported or boycotted? The arrogant man would know. Where is he when I need him?

Tags: Thailand, Chiang Mai, hill tribes, Khantok dance, J J Bakery